Allergies

Wow… where do I even start?

I first learnt about allergic reactions in 2015. So, this topic isn’t new to me. And honestly? It doesn’t shock me anymore.

Before we go any further, I want to be very clear about something.

At no point in this blog am I slating brands, calling anyone out, or promoting anyone. I will mention brand names, but only in the context of my own first-hand experiences. This blog exists for one reason only: to help you feel less alone, less panicked, and far more supported if allergies are something you’re navigating right now.

I also want you to know this.
Even though I’m 'seasoned' in this industry, I have absolutely been where you are. I’ve felt unsure. I’ve second-guessed myself, I still do now! I’ve realised that there were things I didn’t know yet. And yes, I’ve learnt the hard way more than once.

If I can pass on what I’ve learnt so you don’t have to make the same mistakes, then this blog has done its job.

My first encounter with a nail allergy

Let’s go right back to the beginning.

The first allergic reaction I ever encountered came completely out of the blue. It was strange, unexpected, and at the time, something I had never even heard of.

This is a perfect example of how an allergy can happen at any time. It is not automatically because a product is “bad” or “cheap” or “unsafe” and we’ll cover that properly later on, because it can most definitely be a factor!

I had a client who began developing rashes on areas of her body where her nails rested for long periods of time. Mostly while she was sleeping. Her nails would touch her arm, her chest, or her neck… and that’s where the reaction appeared. In the shape of her finger nails!

Here’s the part that really threw me.

She never once reacted on her fingers.
Not on her nail beds.
Not on the skin around the nails.

Only where the nails touched other parts of her body. Not her fingers, just her nails.

At the time, my solution was simple. She stopped having gel nails.

The brand everyone expects me to blame 

Here’s where people are often surprised. Its not who you think it would be!

The brand I was using was Brillbird.

Why does that shock people? Because when you hear Brillbird, you think highly reputable, professional, trusted. And you’d be right. They were... and still are!

I didn’t stop using the brand. I loved their products then and I still do now. I never had another reaction with any other client.

And this is such an important point.
One reaction does not equal a bad brand. 

But time has moved on and BrillBird now actually have alot of their products as HEMA free. And TPO free aswel! Time have most definitely moved on since the 'allergy pandemic'! 

What I wish I’d known then

If I knew then what I know now, I would have asked so many more questions.

I would have done more training and invested in to learning MORE on this subject

But I didn’t.

And this is the part I’ll say out loud, even though it makes me uncomfortable.

I wasn’t educated enough at the time to know what to ask or what to do.

What makes that harder to admit is that I was already an educator by then. This was ten years into my career…

Back then, allergies simply weren’t covered in the way they are now. They weren’t talked about openly. They weren’t emphasised in training. That lack of education wasn’t intentional, but it mattered. We just didn't know enough!

The “Cure & Go” era

I also look back and clearly remember no-wipe top coats being heavily promoted with phrases like:

Cure & go!
No cleansing required!

Now we know better.

Even no-wipe top coats should be wiped. Not just swooshed all over with a lint free wipe either! Needs to be a carefully and controlled wipe! You want to still avoid wiping that all over the skin, just focus on the nail and do not rewipe over and over either, you can guarantee you will touch the skin!

Was my client reacting because the inhibition layer wasn’t removed properly? I’ll never know. She chose to stop having her nails done altogether.

But what I do know is this:
It was a huge learning moment for me.

And it’s something I will always do correctly now.

When the allergy story became personal

For a long time, I was predominantly an acrylic tech. And when I say predominantly, I mean obsessed. Acrylic was my thing. It’s what launched my career, what filled my books, what I was known for.

Gel art? Not really.
Day in, day out? Acrylic. Always acrylic.

And with that came the environment we all remember.

Dust everywhere.
No mask.
No apron.
No gloves.

Go on… does this sound painfully familiar to anyone?

When I trained at college, the focus was simple... get the product on, make it look neat, pass the course. There was very little conversation about exposure, inhalation, or long-term health. Looking back now, it honestly makes me CRINGE.

The signs I ignored for too long

Fast forward to just before COVID hit, and things started to change.

I began getting rashes and irritated patches on my chest.
My throat felt scratchy.
My eyes were sore.
My fingers were itchy.

And here’s the part that should have been the biggest red flag of all.

As soon as I took a break from work for a few days… it stopped.

The rashes eased.
The irritation disappeared.

And I can say this now, without hesitation.

This one was on me.

It was self-inflicted. Not because I didn’t care, but because I didn’t have the right knowledge and I had that dangerous little voice in my head saying, “It won’t happen to me.”

Education gaps have consequences

Once again, poor education and not taking things seriously enough landed me in a tricky situation.

I was lucky.

I noticed the signs early and I took action before it developed into something more severe. But had I carried on working the way I was, without questioning anything, without researching further, without changing my habits… the outcome could have been very different.

And that realisation hit hard.

The education spiral 

Did I go a bit wild with education after that?
Yes.

Did I ask all the questions I once felt embarrassed or “stupid” asking?
Absolutely.

But here’s what I gained in return.

Knowledge.
Confidence.
A proper understanding of the products I was using.

I started learning about health and safety in a way I never had before. I wanted to know the how and the why. I wanted to understand exposure, ingredients, dust, vapours, and risks, not just application techniques.

More than anything, I wanted to protect my career.

The reality we don’t talk about enough

And before I go any further, this is the point I really want you to hear...

As nail technicians, we expose ourselves to chemicals every single day. Dust, vapours, uncured product, airborne particles. It all adds up.

If we don’t protect ourselves, even from something as basic as dust, then logically… what do we really expect to happen?

This isn’t about fear.
It’s about awareness.
And it’s about making informed choices so you can do this job safely, confidently, and for the long term.

              

I was exposing myself to these chemicals for 10-12 hours a day up to 6 days a week! That’s a lot! GLOVES… MASKS… APRONS!! If you don’t wear aprons make sure you are wearing clothing that covers the areas where dust will fall. There can still be uncured product in dust when filing!

Clients, products, and slow exposure

When it comes to clients and product application, exposure often happens more slowly, and that’s why it can be harder to spot.

I see this all the time.

Something as simple as cleaning up with a monomer-soaked brush. The tiniest touch on the skin. Barely noticeable. Easy to dismiss.

But that is exposure.

Yes, it may take longer to cause a reaction, but it is still repeated exposure to chemicals. And repeated exposure, over time, is how sensitivities and allergies can develop.

Slow or small amount doesn’t mean harmless. 

                                     

This is a picture of acrylic applied incorrectly. 

What incorrect application really looks like

I want to be clear here. This isn’t about shaming or calling anyone out. This is about recognising what not to do so we can protect both our clients and ourselves.

Product should not be touching the skin.
You don’t need to touch the skin to get a good result.
And you shouldn’t be relying on “cleaning it up afterwards” as part of your application process.

If a client moves and product accidentally touches the skin, that’s where knowledge matters. Knowing how to remove it quickly, safely, and correctly is essential.

Not panicking. Not guessing. KNOWING!

Education isn’t embarrassing. It’s professional.

The solution here isn’t fear. It’s education.

Research.
Learning from reputable, knowledgeable techs.
Reading articles and books.
Doing courses.
Asking questions.

There is absolutely nothing to be ashamed of if you feel unsure or if you don’t fully understand something yet. In fact, choosing to learn more shows passion, responsibility, and professionalism.

Staying curious is what keeps you safe.

Am I getting carried away?

Probably! But No.
There really is that much to say.

And honestly? It’s flowing because this matters.

Let’s talk about the media noise

This is where I want to slow things down for a moment.

Media articles have a way with words. Headlines are designed to grab attention, not to educate. Some of the articles that followed the peak of the allergy awareness have caused huge amounts of fear, anxiety, and confusion for both techs and clients.

And that helps no one.

Yes, there are professional brands that people have developed allergies to. Allergies have existed for decades across a lot of industries and chemicals. You can even develop allergies to cleaning products if you repeatedly don't wear gloves!

But what we’ve seen instead is brand slamming, witch hunts, techs tearing into techs, brands attacking brands… and it’s exhausting.

That’s not what this conversation needs.

Allergies happen. Across all industries.

Think about lash extensions for a moment.

Patch testing is standard.
Sensible.
Necessary.

Because reactions can happen.

But do you see lash brands publicly attacking each other when someone develops an allergy?
Do you see lash techs warning people off entire brands because one client reacted?

No.

Because it’s understood that sometimes, allergies develop. And that doesn’t automatically mean wrongdoing.

Now let’s widen that lens.

Hair colour has patch tests for a reason.
Lash and brow tints require patch tests.

Why? Because these products are designed to go on or very close to the skin. In some cases, directly next to the eyes. The risk is known, expected, and managed through testing and professional control.

That makes sense.

But nail products are different.

Nail products are not designed to be applied to the skin.
They are designed for the nail plate.

And that distinction matters.

When nail product is touching the skin, that isn’t “just one of those things”. It’s a sign that application isn’t fully controlled. It may be rushed. It may be down to positioning, brush control, bead size, or simply not slowing down enough.

This isn’t said with judgement. It’s said with honesty.

If you understand your application, you can avoid touching the skin.
If you avoid touching the skin, you reduce exposure.
And reduced exposure means reduced risk.

It really is that simple.

This is why precision matters. This is why education matters. And this is why the conversation needs to focus less on panic and blame, and more on technique, control, and awareness.

Because when the product stays where it’s meant to be, it’s doing exactly what it was designed to do.

The real issue we need to address

In my experience, the main contributor to the rise in client allergies isn’t just lack of education & poor application. We also need to look at the increase in at home DIY kits & how accessible professional products are for untrained home users!

TikTok.
Amazon.
eBay.
Vinted.
Supermarkets.
High street chemists.

Products are being sold to the general public with minimal guidance, little understanding of chemistry, no professional training, and no accountability.

I’m naming shops, not brands.

And ask yourself this honestly.

Was there this level of allergic reaction before the covid lockdowns?

The rise since then has been staggering. I now receive multiple enquiries every week from new clients desperately looking for solutions after developing allergies from home gel kits. 

If you combine over exposure from nail techs with home use DIY kits.. The level of exposure grows significantly. Take a look at the pictures below. 

My client couldn't get to me during lockdowns and purchased a builder gel and some colours online. From Amazon I believe. 

                                 

This is a picture of a client of mine. Her first appointment with me after lockdown. She has been applying builder gel and gel polish from amazon.

                                

These were her nails once i had removed all the old product, given a good clean manicure and applied new product.

She was VERY lucky to not suffer from any reactions. Unlike this next client. She was a new client who found me through the HONA website. I registered on there as a nail tech who used their products. She explained she had been using n at home gel brand and this happened to her whilst she was on holiday. We tried HONA & this worked for a couple of sets. But then she started to experience itching on her fingers, so it was best to remove all together. Which brings me to my next point... HEMA is not the devil.....

                                

This picture was taken before this lovely lady became a client of mine. She was using a home DIY kit. This wasn't because she wanted a cheap alternative. She enjoyed doing her nails, it was a hobby for her. She has a real passion for nail art. Had she known this was a possible outcome, I think she would have done things differently.

When DIY has consequences people don’t see

If there were more awareness for people who genuinely love doing their nails at home, maybe, just maybe, the conversation would shift.

Instead of diving straight in, they might pause.
They might choose to learn first.
They might consider doing a course, understanding the chemistry, and investing in professional products with professional knowledge behind them.

And that one decision could change everything.

Because this isn’t about gatekeeping. It’s about safety.

What often doesn’t cross people’s minds is that HEMA isn’t exclusive to nails. It’s also used in dental materials and other medical and surgical procedures.

So when someone develops an allergy through repeated DIY exposure, the impact can reach far beyond manicures.

It can affect future dental work.
It can affect medical treatments.
It can affect options they never even realised they might need.

Trying to save money or “have a go” at home can end up costing far more than just a set of pretty nails.

And that’s why awareness matters.

Understanding reactions properly

Quoting from Doug Schoon’s latest book, there are two possible types of reactions we see in the nail industry:

• Irritant Contact Dermatitis

• Allergic Contact Dermatitis

They are not the same, and understanding the difference matters.

Irritant reactions usually occur when the skin is overwhelmed. Once exposure stops, symptoms typically settle and the skin can heal.

Allergic reactions, however, develop through a process called sensitisation.

This doesn’t happen overnight.

Sensitisation can take months or even years of repeated exposure before any symptoms appear. And this is where nail techs for example, can be led into a very false sense of security. You can work for years without a single issue, believing everything is fine.

Then one day, it isn’t.

Even more importantly, once someone is sensitised, avoiding contact for a period of time doesn’t “reset” things. Even a very small amount of re-exposure can cause symptoms to return quickly and often more aggressively.

It’s not about hunting ingredients

I could sit here and list potential ingredients that can cause reactions, but if I’m being completely honest, the list would be endless.

You can develop an allergy to many substances.

And this part cannot be stressed enough.

If a product contains ingredients that are known allergens, it does not automatically mean it is a bad product.
It is almost always down to how the product is used.

You could remove every well-known allergen from a system, but if you don’t change the way the product is applied, you are still creating overexposure, just to different ingredients.

The chemistry can change. The risk doesn’t disappear.

So how do we actually avoid overexposure?

Let’s start with application.

Something as simple as brush size matters. A brush that’s too big holds too much product, making control harder. Personally, I always prefer using a separate brush rather than the one in the bottle. I find I have far more control over where the product goes and how much I’m applying.

And this is where things really start to make you think.

Dust settling around your work area and bare skin resting on it? Overexposure.

The tissue you wipe your brush on, then lean on with bare skin? Overexposure.

Cleaning gel from a palette with a lint-free wipe but no gloves on? Overexposure.

Cleaning product from your brush or handle of your brush with no gloves on? Still overexposure.

Once you start noticing these moments, you realise just how often contact happens without us even thinking about it.

Curing, thickness, and hidden exposure

Nail coatings can appear cured at around 50%, and uncured product can still be present underneath.

Then what happens?

You file.
You soak off.
And uncured product ends up on the skin.

This is why product thickness matters so much.

The same applies with acrylic. Using too much monomer. Smoothing the surface with extra monomer. With acrygel, overusing slip solution. Every one of these increases exposure.

Different system. Same risk.

When education crosses a dangerous line

I’ve also seen application methods being promoted where products are applied directly over exposed nail bed or skin tissue, particularly for reconstructions on toes.

And I’m sorry, but this needs saying.

How can any chemical nail product be promoted as safe to apply to the skin?

I actually contacted a brand directly about this after seeing their content online, because I genuinely thought I must have misunderstood. I asked how it could be taught as safe practice when the product was being built over skin without a form.

Their response was that their educators show this in training and that it is safe for the skin.

I thanked them for their time and ended the conversation.

I was genuinely shocked.

Everything we use is chemistry. These products are formulated for nails. Skin is not the same. And this is exactly why allergies are rising at the rate they are.

Let’s leave this behind us

Marketing tricks.
False reassurance.
Scaremongering.

It all needs to stay firmly in the past.

What the industry needs moving forward is honesty, clarity, and responsibility, in all aspects of education and from the brands also. Because protecting techs and clients doesn’t come from fear. It comes from understanding.

But… that might be a whole other blog! 

So what’s the real takeaway?

If there is one thing I want you to take from all of this, it’s education.

You never stop learning. Ever.

I’m still learning every single day, and I’m an educator. Teaching does not mean you’ve “arrived”. It doesn’t mean you’re done. It means you have a responsibility to keep growing.

No matter what the media is saying.
No matter what drama is circulating in the industry.

Stay educated.

That’s the most powerful thing you can do.

And while you’re educating yourself, you naturally educate your clients too. It doesn’t have to be boring or clinical. My clients have always asked questions about the products I use, and being able to answer them clearly and confidently feels so good. It builds trust. It builds reassurance. It builds professionalism.

Education doesn’t have to mean starting from scratch either.

There are so many skill workshops available now. You don’t need to go back to beginner level to upskill. Even if you have been in the industry for 20+ years, you never know, you may unlearn a whole load of things and learn so many new skills. You never know unless you just take that step. Knowledge-based courses are just as important. Nail Knowledge, for example, is an incredible online resource. So is Doug Schoons latest book.

Then there are conversion courses. If you’ve rebranded or changed systems, these are invaluable for learning how a brand is designed to be used and applied correctly. This all falls under CPD, and CPD genuinely matters.

Good quality education is also constantly updated. A course you completed two years ago will almost certainly look different today. And that’s a good thing. It means you’re staying current, aligned with modern standards, and working with the most up-to-date information and techniques.

And it’s not just courses.

There are blogs, articles, magazines, and industry experts sharing an incredible amount of free knowledge online. We also have tons of events now that have expert talks or demo's. Take advantage of it. Read widely. Stay curious.

 

Erin xx