I first learnt about allergic reactions in 2015. Its not new to me. It doesn’t shock me.
I will set one thing straight before I start. At no point in this blog am I slating anyone or promoting anyone. I’m going to mention some brand names. But this is based on my first-hand experience. In the hope to help others feel less alone and reduce the amount of anxiety so many of you may be feeling right now!
So, I will start at the beginning. When I first encountered a nail allergy.
This is an example of how an allergy can happen at ANY time. It isn’t necessarily because it’s a bad product (we will cover that further on). I had a client react to her gel nails in the strangest way, I’d never heard of it but we did tests, with trial and error and came to the conclusion to stop having gel nails.
This client was getting rashes appear where her nails were rested on her skin for long periods of time. Mostly whilst she was sleeping, and her nails would be touching her skin on another part of her body. But not once did she react on her fingers or her nails.
I didn’t stop using the brand. I still love their products. You would probably be shocked to hear, this was actually Brillbird. Why would you be shocked? Because you hear Brillbird and think omg they are an amazing highly reputable brand. They still are! I had no other reactions whatsoever.
If I knew then what I know now… I would have had so many more questions and ways to determine the issue, one being to send her to her GP for further investigation. For all I know… this could have been from a hand cream she used before going to sleep. I wasn’t educated enough to know what to ask and what to do! It wasn’t a thing when I trained and I’m actually ashamed to admit it, but I was an educator then too and I didn’t know what to do!! How bad is that?!
This was 10 years into my career too! But the first reaction I had ever encountered!
I used to be predominantly an acrylic tech. I was crazy about acrylic. That’s what launched my career. I didn’t really do much gel art. Day in day out acrylic!
Dust everywhere.. dare I say it.. no mask… no apron.. no gloves. Sound familiar!? Those that trained as long ago as I did anyway. When I was trained at college I passed from just slapping the product on everywhere and just making it look neat! It’s crazy when I look back now.
Fast forward to just before covid hit and I was getting rashes, irritating patches. Scratchy throat. Sore eyes. Itchy on my fingers. As soon as I would have a break from work for a few days the rashes stopped. I’m to blame, it’s self-inflicted! I didn’t have the correct knowledge and had that ‘it wont happen to me’ attitude.
Again poor education and not taking things seriously.. landed me in a tricky situation! Luckily I noticed this and took action before it developed into anything too bad. But had I not started to further my research and skill set (continued personal development aka cpd through doing more courses) and continued the way I was.. things may have been different!
Did I go crazy with education after this? YES! Did I ask all those questions I felt stupid asking? YEP!
But what did I gain? Knowledge & Confidence in the products I was using.
Before I go on further what I am trying to say, as a nail technician we expose ourselves to these chemicals day in day out. If we don’t protect ourselves, even from the dust particles, logically, what do we really expect to happen?
I was exposing myself to these chemicals for 10-12 hours a day up to 6 days a week! That’s a lot! GLOVES… MASKS… APRONS!! If you don’t wear aprons make sure you are wearing clothing that covers the areas where dust will fall. There can still be uncured product in dust when filing!
When it comes to clients and products it’s a different slower exposure. I will cover this as I see it a lot. Something as simple as cleaning up with your monomer soaked brush… just the slightest bit on the skin… that’s exposure! Yes it may take longer to cause a reaction but its still over exposure… to chemicals.
This is a picture of acrylic applied incorrectly.
The best way around this is do some research, find a tech that is reputable, knows their stuff and do some training! Read some articles with advice. Take advantage of peoples tips and tricks on how to avoid over exposure! Why clean up your work when you can learn how to do it without needing to clean up?
You really don’t need to and shouldn’t be touching the skin when applying product. If you are or accidently touch the skin because your client moved, then knowledge on how to clean up quickly and correctly is important to know.
Am I getting carried away…….. NO! There is so much I have to say and its just flowing!
The hot topic now, dare I say it… The BBC interview!
Firstly, I just want to remind you… Media articles have a way with words and there are some articles published after that interview, that are really scaring some techs and clients!
Yes there is professional brands out there that people have developed allergies to. There have been lies, witch hunts, techs tearing into techs, brands slamming brands…. The list goes on.
I’m not here for the brand slamming. I’m not going to name names to bitch. Allergies have been around and developing to all sorts of chemicals for years. Look at lash extensions for instance. You have to have a patch test for them, just to check you don’t react before you have them applied. Of course, it’s the sensible thing to do, its on your eyes! But do you see lash brands slamming each other when people have an allergic reaction to them? Or lash techs warning people off brands when someone develops an allergy? I don’t! Because these things happen sometimes.
The main culprit and reason clients are developing allergies are home DIY kits. Amazon, eBay, Supermarkets, Superdrug, Boots…. Selling to the general public, unsafe and for unqualified people to get their hands on and apply with minimal knowledge behind the chemicals they are applying! I’m naming shops here, not brands.
Ask yourself this… was there a high rise before lockdowns? The rise in allergies is ridiculous I’m getting a couple of enquiries a week from clients looking for a solution as they have developed an allergy from home gel kits!
This is a picture of a client of mine. Her first appointment with me after lockdown. She has been applying builder gel and gel polish from amazon.
These were her nails once i had removed all the old product, given a good clean manicure and applied new product.
I have never known anything like it!
The name we keep hearing is HEMA. You don’t often see other ingredients named. There are definitely other ingredients you can react to. But HEMA is the common name being seen.
HEMA, HEPA & IBOA These ingredients are in almost all the professional brands (unless they state they are free of them) They are used for adhesion! Take these ingredients out and the adhesion is trickier, and you have to apply differently with more care.
When using at home with little education, the amount of damage being caused by applying incorrectly is unthinkable. Cleaning up or leaving bits cured to the cuticles. The overexposure is dangerous. I’ve seen it all.
This picture was taken before this lovely lady became a client of mine. She was using a home DIY kit. This wasn't because she wanted a cheap alternative. She enjoyed doing her nails, it was a hobby for her. She has a real passion for nail art. Had she known this was a possible outcome, I think she would have done things differently.
If there is more awareness out there for people wanting to do their nails at home because they love doing it, maybe, just maybe they will think about doing a course to learn the correct way and invest in professional products.
Not once would it cross someone's mind that dental treatments and other surgical procedures use HEMA in their materials for work! Developing an allergy by trying to DIY can cost more than just pretty nails.
With all of this taken into consideration, I decided to rebrand to a gel product free of these ingredients. Not because I had encountered allergies with my clients (thankfully), but because I wanted to get in front of what was possibly to come.
I came to the decision to rebrand because I wanted to, not from being scared in to it or worried about what I was currently using.
I wanted to know I could offer something safe and available to clients who had experienced allergies but worked for those who hadn’t experienced allergies too.
My experience with HONA and why I love the brand is for another blog I am writing. I don’t want this to turn in to a blog trying to sell something to you. That is far from the point.
Since hearing about the BBC interview, I have seen so many brands announcing that they commit to bringing a HEMA free range of gel products and this just makes my heart happy! It gives those who have developed allergies that chance to still have their nails done.
But… and that’s a big but… there are other chemicals you can develop allergies to. It’s not just HEMA!
HEMA is not the villain!! I still use HEMA products. In my extensions. I use crystal nails Acrygel for my extensions. I have spent thousands of ££ on my training to feel confident in my application and my job role of looking after clients nails and their enhancements.
I will not sit here and say you must not use HEMA or HEMA is the devil. This is scaremongering. Also again, its not just HEMA.
OMG I think I might end up dreaming about bloody HEMA tonight I’ve said it so many times!
My main point I want to come from this is.. Education! You can never stop learning! I am learning every day and I’m an educator! Just because I teach doesn’t mean I don’t need to continue my education!
No matter what the media says, no matter what drama is going on in the industry… stay well educated! You really can’t do much more than that. Whilst you educate yourself, you can educate your clients. It doesn’t need to be boring. My clients have always asked me questions about products I use and being able to answer their questions with confidence feels so good.
There are so many skill workshops out there, it doesn’t need to be a complete beginner course. Look at nail knowledge! That is an amazing online course!
Then you’ve got conversion courses. If you have rebranded, conversion courses are great to learn how that brand is used and applied etc. This again comes under cpd.
Good quality education will be forever updated with the most current information. A course you did 2 years ago most likely will have changed if you took it again now. Meaning you are up to date and current with all the latest industry standards, knowledge and techniques.
As well as courses, there are blogs in magazines & websites from experts in the industry offering you their free knowledge and advice on so many different topics.. take advantage of it!
I am going to end this here. If you made it this far, thank you so much for reading and sticking with me to the end of this blog.
My inbox is always open. If you have any questions after this blog just get in touch. No question is too silly. I’m here to help! No judgements!
Over the next few days I will share on my stories, links to blogs, vlogs and other helpful informative content about allergies and just really switched on experienced techs and experts. These will then be saved in my highlights for easy access for when ever you want to read more!
The face behind the blog! Be Kind, Be Supportive, Be Creative!
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I thought i would do this blog on all the different Gels I use and their differences. I also wanted to touch on some things I have been seeing.
Im seeing a lot of confusion between 'Builder In a Bottle' and 'Builder Gel'
So lets clear this up....
Builder In A Bottle - There are many reasons people use this now. But the main reasons being...
Builder Gel- This title can be confusing and lead people to believe this is just like builder in a bottle. Especially Newcomers in to the industry! Builder Gel (in a pot not a bottle) is a HARD GEL!
IT IS NOT BUILDER IN A BOTTLE!!
This is used for
Crystal nails version of Builder In A Bottle is called 'Compact Base'. Not only can it be used as base gel for their gel polishes and hard gels, but it can be used to build strength on the natural nail for weak and/or damaged nails. You can build a very short extension with this but I would not use this for building anything longer, it is not designed to build enhancements. It is a soak off product and comes in 6 different colours. It has a prep system which is different to other brands, its always good to check how the system works when starting out in any brand. Dont assume they are all the same.
Hard Gel/Builder Gel - There is a lot of varieties, all coming in pots (not bottles). With Crystal Nails the cover gels are labelled as 'Hard Gel' and the clear gels are labelled as 'Builder Gels' These Gels are used for building enhancements or overlays on longer natural nails that need strength. This is a completely different qualification to Builder In a Bottle.
It is so important to know and understand what you are using. If you are unsure of what something is, ask the company. Or if they have brand ambassadors, ask them. They represent the brand and should know about the products inside and out!
Im seeing so often now, that when techs are doing qualifications in Builder In a Bottle, they think they are qualified in Hard Gel/Builder Gel too! Assuming they are the same to use. Some even assume they are qualified to use Acrygel too!
Dont panic if you have done this, you shouldn't need to do a complete beginners course all over again in the different medium you want to use. You should be able to do a conversion course. These are usually a day course with case studies.
The following all need their own qualifications
They are different products and are used in different ways.
You could say the same for some colour gels. Some brands colour gels that come in pots are from the hard gel family, they will be ok for full coverage over Hard Gel, acrylics etc, but if painted on natural nails the colour could crack. This is because the gel itself is too 'hard' when cured and the natural nail is flexible, this then leads to the colour showing small cracks.
For example Crystal Nails royal gel i would not use on the natural nail for full colour, i only use them for nail art when using directly on natural nails. This is the same for Home of Nail Art (HONA) detail paints these can also be used for full coverage but not on the natural nail. Its only recommended full coverage over enchancments. But for nail art and details, they can be used on anything.
If you have any questions about the gel system you are using I am more than happy to help, just pop me a message.
I have had some amazing suggestions for future blog topics!
Thank you for reading and i hope this has been helpful!
Erin x
]]>Have you ever looked at a sculpted set and thought wow i wish i could do that?!
I know i did when i saw it. I thought, wow one day i want to be able to do a sculpted set of nails. But where do i start?!
I kept trying to teach myself, but the nails just never looked structurally OK. They always looked too high or too hooked.
What did i do? I went on a course.
Was i magically then confident and good at it? NO! Did i give up? Nope.
When i found it difficult or had a tricky set of nails i would still use nail tips. So I threw them all away. So all i had to do was sculpt! I removed that easy option that was holding me back.
If you are looking to learn how to sculpt, book a course with an educator who sculpts. Research their work and knowledge.
Sculpting is a tough one. If you want to get it right, learn from someone who gets it right.
What i learnt the first time around (this was a long time ago) it didn't make sense and was so basic. It didn't cover structure and form tailoring. I was taught to place the form, cut the relief sides and place products. I was not taught what to look for and how to fit the form differently for different shapes, where the structure fits in, how to know when its not fitted correctly etc etc.
I found someone who did teach me all of those things. After researching educators.
Find someone who will explain it. So that you understand how and why it works. Trust me, you will understand it so much better. Its so much more than just placing a sticker at the end of a clients finger.
The Tools
When i was first taught I used manicure scissors. These were very long thin and very sharp manicure scissors.
Until i found Katie Barnes Tool Range.
The Form Tailoring Kit intrigued me.
When i first got them i was like woah! These are springy! How am i going to get used to this when i have been using my other scissors for so long
But when using them for the first time during a full set... what a difference they made!
Its the smallest of changes in the hand movements, but it makes a huge huge difference. I used to get aches in between my thumb and index finger. From the movement of using my scissors. I used them a lot! But now the aches have gone!
I can now tailor a form with so much ease. Not just because the blades are slim and sharp, but because of the handle to. I can get in to angles i struggled with before.
So here is what each one is for....
Straight Form Tailoring scissors - I use these to cut the relief lines either side of the nail. The relief lines allow for the form to fit the nail and not finger.
Curved Form Tailoring Scissors - These are used to cut the section of the form that fits around the free edge.
White Gel Pen - This is a great little extra in the kit, use this to draw on the form. I fit the form on to the nail in the angle that i want it to fit. Then i draw around the free edge on the form. Then remove the form and cut around this white line, refit and boom you have a form tailored to your clients natural nail shape!
You can buy these all separate or together as a kit. They really have changed the way i sculpt. They have also helped with the way i can teach sculpting too! I've used them since they were released and will scream about them from the rooftops.
Everything i write about will always be products/tools that i have used for a LONG time and truly believe in.
As always, if you have any questions about anything i write.. Please just drop me a message i am more than happy to help with any advice or questions you have.
Thank you so much for reading this and supporting this new blog of mine. I am actually really enjoying it!
Until next time.
Erin x
]]>Im going to start with a bit of a background.
I was an acrylic girl, massively!! I lived and breathed acrylic. I loved everything about it. From basic salon extensions, to big fancy pants acrylic designs and shapes! I dabbled in other materials but never really took to them, they didn't last as well as my acrylics lasted.
I tried acrygel a few years ago when it first came out. Myself and my clients didn't get on with it so i ditched it and stuck with acrylic. It was my safety net.
Fast forward a few years. I decided I would retrain in acrygel and do a refresher. I did this through Katie Barnes and trained with Melanie Lewendon. It was amazing! I was recommended it because I was struggling with hand pain and being told that acrygel reduced filing, I just HAD to try it again.
Lots had changed since i first tried Acrygel. I learnt that the products have been adapted and formulas improved over the years. But it was the first time for me trying crystal nails acrylgel!
This was my first ever acrygel nail using Crystal Nails Fusion Acrylgel in Cover Pink
I was overwhelmed with excitement! This nail was created with so much ease! Sculpted and minimal filing. I didn't even have to touch the cuticle area with a file!
Do i need to give any more reasons why I fell in love?
OK maybe one more?
Reverse French!! GAME CHANGER!!
I haven't looked back! This french above is encapsulated!! I used Royal Gel for the colours, which is part of the hard gel family.
So that is the background of how i ended up obsessed with acrylgel.
The brand i use is Crystal Nails. I love the consistency and the colours. Its perfect for me. Cover pink comes in a 60g tube and a 30g tube. Because I only use cover pink, having the 60g option is really great!
Its very easy after some practice to know how much you need to squeeze out of the tube for either full coverage or an infil.
The prep system is amazing. It feels very thorough. And the finished result is just incredible. So smooth, It files like butter.
It doesn't soak off. Its a file off product. I wondered if this would be an issue. But it really wasn't. I use my efile for the majority of the removal and then hand file the rest. But in all honesty, it removes much nicer than acrylic.
Its a mix of acrylic and hard gel. That is the simple answer.
The product itself has many names. Polygel, Acrygel, Acrylgel, Acrylic-Gel, PowerGel.
They are all the same thing. Some come in tubes some come in pots. There are so many fabulous brands out there.
Its a putty like texture, with the strength of acrylic and flexibility of hard gel. Its used to create strong and beautiful extensions or overlays. The added bonus of NO SMELL!!
You can sculpt with it or use with tip and overlay method. Its moulded on to the natural nail and in to shape with a brush using a solution.
When you place it on the nail, it stays there. I can lay a bead on all 5 nails, and then mould each one before even thinking about curing it! It really takes out all the stress!
You know on those extra cold days or extra hot days when your acrylic sets too slow or too quickly... NONE of that!!
Once its in shape you then cure it, refine it with a file and bam! Its done! Sometimes i only need to refine it with a 240 grit too!
I predominantly use cover pink with my clients. Then i paint my designs on top of this. I have however recently tried a glitter cover pink from crystal nails. Its called Rose Quartz Its stunning. It has the smallest most sparkly glitter in it.
This is a picture of Rose Quartz Acrylgel
I started by trialling it first on myself. Building a collection before offering it as a service. I needed to be sure that my clients would benefit from it and that i was moving them over for a reason.
I started getting my OG Acrylic clients switched over first. Trialling with ones that would usually trash their acrylics. The results were amazing! No lifting and no breaks.
I have a fair amount of clients who need regular re-balances too. Using acrygel and the fact it files like butter.. makes regular re-balances soooo much easier!
If you are thinking of investing in crystal nail arcygel. For their system you need:
Typing these in to the search bar on their website will bring them straight up. The set up isn't that expensive. I found it very reasonable. I compared it to the amount i spent on acrylic products.
You can click here to view the website.
I think what i want my final words to be for this blog is, just because you have been doing one thing for a long long time. It doesn't mean you cant change and try something new!
Go do that conversion course. Go learn something new! Trial that product! You never know where it will take you and what you will learn along the way!
If you have any questions, let me know!
OMG - that is my first one done. Did you read this far? Thank you so much if you did!
I promise they will get better the more I practice at this writing malarkey!
What did you think? Let me know in the comments.
I will be back next week with a new topic!
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I could sit here and say I've got all these resolutions for this year. But I dont!
I've got goals!
Have you set resolutions or goals?
From my past experiences if i set resolutions I'm setting myself up to fail. I put way too much pressure on myself and then give up!
One of these goals is to start my blog. Im going to use this platform to share with you different aspects of my day to day life through 2022!
Lets see how it goes haha.
Never done anything like this before so it could go horribly wrong, but you never know unless you try right?
I want to hear from YOU too!!! If there is something you want me to blog about just let me know, I can review products and let you know what i think too! Or how i use them.
So with that in mind, the topic ill be covering for my first proper blog will be Acrylgel. How i fell in love with it, what turned me to it and why i use what I use! Ill be doing little videos to accompany this blog too! Ill be exploring the different brands and what is available out there in the world of acrylgel too!
Its going to take me a while i know that much!!
Anyway, if you have got this far, thank you! I look forward to starting one of my 2022 goals with you!
Happy New Year
Erin xx
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